Note: For a limited time get free copy of “Get Into 3D Printing Without It Being A Total Waste of Plastic” in PDF format free by clicking Towofplastic-GetIn
When I first started getting my hands dirty with this amazing hobby I found that there were many ways to set up a 3D printer. The amount of “how too” and the wealth of information that I found on the internet was staggering. But what I found was that it was fragmented, and all over the place. It was never just about setting up my particular printer. My first printer was a Hictop i3 clone
and later I brought a BIQU Kossel Plus Delta printer. While both these types of printer print objects using molten plastic. Setting either of them up is completely different and with varying degrees of complexity. I wanted an easy, non-ambiguous way to calibrate both of my printers. Also, because these are classed as scientific instruments I knew I was going to have to do this task quite a few times because regular calibration is the best way to get good prints. I needed a proven, repeatable way of doing it again and again. Oh and did I mention it had to be easy?
I think that buying and building a 3D printer yourself with a kit is by far the best way to go because it teaches you how these remarkable machines work. My books are predominantly aimed at the “DIY kit” builder. Without a doubt the most fun you can have whilst still keeping your clothes on.
This page is about those books. What they can do for you and how they can make your life easier. I won’t try to tell you that I have invented a new way to calibrate a 3D printer. But what I did was to take the many ways that I personally found on the internet and I tested them on my own printers. Whilst I was doing the testing I asked the following questions when it came to each method I tried.
- Is it easy to setup the printer using this method?
- Is it sustainable or do I need to do it before every print?
- Did I have to buy more hardware or spend money on more gizmos to obtain a good print using that particular method?
- Are the printing results repeatable?
- Is this particular way easy to follow?
- Can this calibration be used if you don’t have a auto bed levelling device?
- Are the prints produced after calibration good enough to give away to someone?
3D printing is fun, but you must know how to set up your printer in the first place. It’s a vicious circle because the more you experience failed prints the harder you try to fix it but the information to fix it is never in one place. Then when it continues to fail, time after time. You get to the point of feeling beat and so you lose interest. What you need is an easy to follow book that allows you to get printing as soon as possible and that gives great results. A book that shows you how to calibrate your 3D printer in easy steps.
If that’s what you want then I may just have what you are looking for. This could be the place to set your 3D printer free. Purchasing my book will allow you to not only set up a 3D printer easily, but to get great looking prints too. It also allows you to understand how your printer does what it does. I not only show you the steps required to set up your own printer but also what software to use to make your life a whole lot easier while you calibrate it. How to get the critical settings that you need in order to tame the beast that is often called “3D Printer Calibration”
The first book called Get Into 3D Printing Without It Being A Total Waste of Plastic
Covers 3D printing overall, its background where 3D printing started. I delve in to its history, (which might just surprise you). I then cover different types of filament the different types of 3D printer that you can buy and the pros and cons of each. I show you about using supports whilst printing and what you can use 3D printing for.
I then explain how to find the best possible 3D printer based on your own requirements. I decided to order straight from China for one of my printers because I wanted to find out the pro’s and con’s of obtaining a printer that way. I lay down in easy to follow steps, how you can choose your printer, how to find reviews so you can honestly see whether it will match up to your expectations and your own needs. I then show you how to keep safe if you do decide to buy from a Chinese web site, or from Amazon for that matter. I list all the features of a 3D printer that you might want to consider before you buy. I explain why a heated build plate is handy. Why build volume is an important subject. Websites that offer a multitude of objects for you to try printing. Plus more help and resources than you could shake a 3D printed stick at. It really is the best starting place if you are unsure of what 3D printing is or if you want to know where to go to get the best printer you can afford.
My second book called Don’t Be a Total Waster (of plastic) Calibrate Your Desktop 3D Printer Like A Boss.
Amazon link – http://amzn.eu/cdTE3US – Price £4.50
Covers what is possibly the best known type of 3D printer. The desktop style of 3D printer. Often referred to as and i3 Clone (After the Prusa i3) Here I get straight into the calibration of your printer. Listing the tools you will need as well as the software. I’ll tell you about all the parts that go to make up your printer like stepper motors, toothed belts, heated beds, hot ends and extruders. There are certain important measurements and settings that you will need in order to calibrate your desktop printer to perfection. I’ll show you how to get these important settings so you have them whenever you need them (you will need them all the time).
I then take you through the important but enjoyable steps required to get your 3D printer printing like a professional. Calibrating a 3D printer should be done on a regular basis so calibration needs to be quick. If you know what you are doing and know where the all important settings are, calibration becomes a breeze and even enjoyable. I show you in easy steps how to check the millimeter per second setting of the stepper motors, and make sure that if your object requires a base of 20mm square and 0.2mm thickness that’s what it gets. Getting a level build plate is often over looked, but not on my watch. I show you how to set up a level build plate so that the all-important first layer is given every chance to stick the first time. No matter what filament you are using.
I show you how to perform a quick and dirty bed levelling technique where we print first and adjust the bed height as it prints. Then finally, I show you how to set up an “Auto-bed levelling” probe the right way. Then we sail right into troubleshooting issues that you might find as your journey into 3D printing continues. I also show you how to setup the Arduino IDE to safely flash your firmware. explain the different Firmware settings you have. As well as safely changing the settings to get the very best from your printer.
My third book called Don’t Be a Total Waster (of plastic) Calibrate Your Delta 3D Printer Like A Boss
Amazon link – http://amzn.eu/0jcCki9 – Price £4.50
Calibrating my Delta printer took me to the ragged edge. I tested a bunch of ways, some worked while others worked but not for very long. Eventually, I found a way that did work but it needed simplifying.
By far the hardest printer to calibrate but only because of the their design. If I’m honest, I love Delta printers. I love to watch them as they print and remind me of an old Grandfather clock with the swinging pendulum. All be it in a mad and slightly erratic way.
The main issue with calibrating a Delta printer is that all of the calibrations have to be conducted in the upper part of the printer. You can’t use the build plate to help you because the build plate is static. If you really want to calibrate your delta printer properly it’s all about the end stops. Delta printers are known for their complexity because to get them printing level you have to make adjustments to specific parts. Parts with exotic names like “DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET” and “DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET” then there’s the “DELTA_RADIUS” The calculated distance from one measurement point to another. All this talk can very soon overwhelm anyone trying to get these magnificent machines printing well.
In this book I show you how to calibrate a delta type printer. I tell you about the different parts and explain what the hell the DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET is and why you need to make sure it’s got the correct measurement. I’ll show you that a well setup delta printer is easier than you might think. Once you get it set up the first time you can comfortably keep it at it’s printing pinnacle in just a few minutes. I’ll show you how easy it is to change a setting in the firmware that together with some other simple tricks, takes your Delta printer to a whole new level.
My forth book called….. Actually I’m not sure yet because I am still writing it. But it is going to be about Marlin, Arduino IDE and RAMPS. and I will be offering this book for free. I am really busy at the moment though, but I will try to have it finished by the end of October 2018.
Marlin being the brains of your printer. Whatever you do with tools on the outside to make your prints look better. You can also do on the inside when you tweak the settings and parameters in “Marlin”. Marlin then talks to your “RAMPS” board and together the magic happens. To change any of these setting and configurations you need to have an understanding of “Arduino” this is the layer of the cake where we as humans interact with the 3D printer. But don’t let this put you off, you don’t need a PhD to be able to use this. I am currently working on updating your copy of Marlin firmware, something most people like to do from time to time. Soon as I have done I will post it up here. If you want to be alerted when I do, perhaps you could consider subscribing to my blog I don’t post that often and believe me I have no interest in selling your information, so you’re safe ;O)